Gamehelphanabi

개요

하나비는 협동하여 더 멋진 불꽃놀이를 완성하는 게임입니다.

구성

초급

초급:5색(50장)

빨강 (r)	111	22	33	44	5
노랑 (y)	111	22	33	44	5
초록 (g)	111	22	33	44	5
파랑 (b)	111	22	33	44	5
하양 (w)	111	22	33	44	5

중급 이상

중급:6색(+10장), 색의 향연:다색(+10장)

다색 (m)	111	22	33	44	5

변형

중급:6색(+5장)

다색 (m)	1	2	3	4	5

진행

게임이 시작되면 모든 플레이어들은 4장의 카드를 받습니다. 자신 외의 모든 플레이어의 카드를 볼 수 있습니다. 모든 플레이어는 아래의 세가지 행동으로 소통해야됩니다. 채팅 등 이외의 수단은 사용하는 것은 권장되지 않습니다.

힌트 주기

게임이 시작되면 게임 보드 위에 힌트 토큰이 8개가 있을 겁니다. 다른 플레이어에게 힌트를 주기 위해서는 토큰을 사용해야합니다. 줄 수 있는 힌트는 다음과 같습니다.

• 어떤 종류의 숫자 카드가 있는지 알려줄 수 있습니다. ^{예) 플레이어 1님의 손에 있는 3장의 1 카드를 알려줍니다.}
• 어떤 종류의 색 카드가 있는지 알려줄 수 있습니다. ^{예) 플레이어 1님의 손에 있는 노랑 카드를 알려줍니다.}
• 어떤 종류의 숫자 카드가 없는지 알려줄 수 있습니다. ^{예) 플레이어 1님의 손에 1 카드가 없음을 알려줍니다.}
• 어떤 종류의 색 카드가 없는지 알려줄 수 있습니다. ^{예) 플레이어 1님의 손에 노랑 카드가 없음을 알려줍니다.}

카드 놓기

카드를 한 장 사용할 수 있습니다. 다음의 경우에 보드 위에 놓을 수 있습니다.

• 해당 카드가 1일 경우
• 이미 보드에 놓아진 같은 종류의 색 카드 보다 숫자가 1 큰 경우

이외의 경우에는 실패하게 되며 카드는 버려집니다. 그 후, 덱에 카드가 남아있다면 카드 한 장을 가져옵니다.

카드 버리기

힌트 토큰이 7개 이하일 경우 카드를 버리고 힌트 토큰을 하나 가져옵니다. 그 후, 덱에 카드가 남아있다면 카드 한 장을 가져옵니다.

종료

• 덱이 비워지면 모든 플레이어는 마지막 턴을 진행한 후 게임이 끝납니다.
• 놓을 수 있는 카드가 모두 놓아졌다면 게임이 끝납니다.
• 카드 놓기에 세번 실패하면 게임이 끝나며 패배로 기록됩니다.

추가 설정

흑색 화약

검정색에 대한 힌트를 줄 수 없습니다. 흑색 카드는 다음의 경우에만 놓을 수 있습니다.

• 해당 카드가 5일 경우
• 이미 보드에 놓아진 같은 종류의 색 카드 보다 숫자가 1 작은 경우

흑색 화약(+10장)

흑색 (k)	555	44	33	22	1

화려한 폭죽 5장

색상의 마지막 카드를 사용한 후 즉시 사용할 수 있도록 다음 보너스 중 하나를 무작위로 선택됩니다.

• 단서 토큰을 얻습니다.
• 단서 토큰을 얻고 생명을 회복하십시오.
• 색상에 대한 힌트를 주세요.
• 숫자에 대한 힌트를 주세요.
• 버린 카드를 덱에 섞습니다.
• 가능하면 버려진 카드를 사용하십시오.

점수

보드에 놓아진 카드 갯수가 점수입니다.

점수 평가

점수	관람객 평가
0-5	형편 없음. 관람객들의 야유가 쏟아집니다...
6-10	인상적이지 않음. 영혼 없는 박수 정도나 나올까?
11-15	인상적이긴 하지만 그리 기억될 만큼은 아닙니다...
16-20	훌륭하며 관람객들도 만족한 듯 합니다.
21-24	놀랍군요. 관람객들이 오랫동안 기억할 듯 합니다.
25-29	이제 당신은 전설! 이 이상의 불꽃놀이는 없을 듯 합니다.
30	신화적입니다! 불꽃놀이가 하늘의 별들보다도 찬란하게 빛납니다!

ELO rating

• If you are playing with ELO rating on, your ELO may be changed at the end of the game.
• Here is how it works:
• 1. Every player on the team is temporarily considered as having the average ELO rating of the team.
• 2. The system will generate a bot associated with the score your team has achieved (let’s call it Hanabot).
  • • Hanabot’s ELO rating depends on the variant you are playing (50 cards, 60 cards, 60 cards multicolour), the number of players on the team and, most importantly, your team's score.
  • • All Hanabot’s ELO ratings have been set by an experienced player, they are not random or simply proportional to the score/number of players.
• 3. Your team (actually your team's average ELO) will now compete against Hanabot.
  • • The system will calculate your team’s ELO gain/loss as though your team had tied with Hanabot.
  • • If your score is below 18 (50-card game) or below 21 (60-card game), Hanabot's ELO is always 1000.

• You can find all bots' ELO ratings here
• The 55-card variant (50 cards + 1 of each value in the sixth color) cannot be played with ELO rating on. (This is because this variant is highly dependent on draw and a team’s score may not always reflect the players’ skills.)
• If you achieve the perfect score and this should cost you ELO points, you will be considered as having beaten the bot associated with the score, so that you lose no ELO points.
• To be confirmed: I think the ELO-system has had an overhaul.

Conventions

• If you want to play "full information" style, meaning that you wait until you know both the colour and number of a card before you play it, you will likely be short on clue tokens in >99% of the decks.
• The logical conclusion is that you cannot play a full information style game and the team must agree on some sort of meta-information. The meta-information is coded in a convention.
• Many players have different kinds of conventions.
  • Note: not all conventions are added to the BGA list. Please respect the convention the table creator wants to play.
• When different players in the same team assign different meta-information to the same clue, the game becomes unplayable.
  • This is why there is an option to display the convention for the table.
  • See this forum post started by user Romain672.
• Ideally, all players adhere to the convention, to avoid miscommunication.
• Below, the meta-information of several conventions is explained.

Standard

• Players assume the following meta-information:
  • Every marked card will be playable at some point.

Number clue

• Cards with a number-clue on them must be saved to be played later on in the game
• Saved cards can be safely played when all "number-1" cards are played.
  • Saved cards are played from oldest to newest.

Colour clue

• The newest, previously unmarked card, is the next playable card in the sequence.
• The oldest, unmarked card is safe to discard.
  • If a player has a card that they are sure they will never be able to play, e.g. cards marked by a blue clue when the blue stack is already complete, these card must be discarded in priority.

Bad clues

• A clue that marks 0 new cards.
• A clue that tells a lie (i.e. does not conform to the meta-information above).
• A clue that marks unplayable or duplicate cards, unless it saves a card at the chop position that does not have another copy of the card in the deck or other players' hands.
  • e.g. Marking 4s in another hand if your hand could have a copy of that 4.
• Sometimes, a "bad" clue cannot be avoided.
  • e.g. Save a unique 3 using a number clue which also marks unplayable cards.
  • e.g. A colour clue from a flamboyant must be used and it is used to mark 0 new cards.
• When a lie has been told, it needs to be corrected.
• A correction clue can never mean "play", it can only mean "discard".

Finesse

• Finesse builds on the standard convention (making it a bit more complex).
• In the finesse convention, the timing of the clue gives you extra information.
• You can assume the following meta-information:
  • Every card that gets marked, will be playable at some point.
  • If the oldest, unmarked card gets marked with a number-clue, then the clue meant "save this/these card(s)". (It is custom to play saved cards from oldest to newest when appropriate.)
  • A clue that doesn't mark the oldest card, means that the newest, previously unmarked card, is the next playable card in the sequence.
  • The oldest, unmarked card is safe to discard unless that player is busy by having a "known" play or discard.
    • Obviously, if a player has a card that they are sure they will never be able to play, for example a card on which is marked as 1 when all the 1s have already been played, should be discarded in priority.
  • Clues are given by the last possible player.
    • When the timing of a clue doesn't match your expectations, you can draw certain conclusions (see next section: special interpretations)

Special interpretations

• When receiving a clue for the "next playable card in the sequence", the linking cards are not limited to already marked cards (like in standard convention).
• The newest, unmarked cards in every player's hand should be considered as well.

• If a marked card gets discarded it means:
  • The copy of that card is already marked in someone else's hand, and the discarding player is the first to realize this; or
  • The copy of that card MUST be marked in a future clue (because a save-clue will be given that will mark the copy card as collateral).

Clues you should avoid giving (bad clues)

• As a special remark: don't mark useless, or duplicate cards. So if you have a saved 4, you are forbidden from marking 4s, unless you are sure you are not holding a copy of that

Meaning of skipping a player / stealing clues in Finesse convention

• There are different approaches among finesse-convention-players about who should clue whom. So this section will be devided into sub-sections. The order does not say anything about which approach is more common on BGA. There are a lot of players following each idea.
• If you allow for skipping (without assigning information to it), a lot of potential information is destroyed. Note that this section is getting re-edited over and over. So don't modify it, or keep it neutral.
• With bga's conventions, the first approach is easier and more instinctif. But the second approach will give better long term results. And of course it is important for success, that in a game, the group of players follows the same idea. If they get mixed, it will most likely result in bombs. If that happens, it does not mean, the other player is "bad" - it merely means, they follow a different idea. So you can only try to find a common ground for the next game or play with another group next time.

a) Skipping / stealing should be avoided

To summarize what we already know about finesse convention: 1. Ever marked card will be playable at some point. 2. A number-clue that marks the CHOP card is a "save this for later"-clue. 3. Every other clue means: the newest, previously unmarked card, is the next playable card. 4. If you have no known playable card (or known safe-to-discard card), your CHOP card is safe to discard. 5. A clue is given by the last possible player.

• If more than 1 person are able to give the same clue, then the last possible person should give that clue.
• In finesse convention skipping (Alice clues Cat, instead of Bob; then Bob is skipped) means either:
  • 1. The Bob is forbidden from giving that clue; or
  • 2. The Bob has something to play.
• The main problem with this interpretation, is that "discard management" destroys the assumption that your CHOP is safe to discard.
• When applying this style of finesse convention, you assume that players use a bad strategy (see section Strategy) of not-saving-valuable cards.

b) Skipping / stealing is for discard-management

This style is one way of applying finesse convention. You chop might still be that said card is a nice-to-have like a NON-unique 2 or 3 that is not yet playable. Without knowing your chop card, it is good to handle each-other's chop situation by preferably letting players with definitely useless chop-cards discard rather than discarding your own unknown card. Skipping/stealing is a term that is often used for a situation, where giving a clue is not left for the last possible player to do. e.g. Alice saves a card on chop of Cat, potentially leaving Bob without a known play or a useful/necessary clue to give.

When getting skipped without having a play or useful option to clue, it most likely means that your chop card is not very useful. These are valid reasons for skipping you:

• Your chop-card is trash (a copy of the card is already played/marked)
• Your chop-card is redundant: Another copy of it is on another player's (or your own) hand as well, so discarding it is no loss (or it has low priority like a high number when it's very early in the game).
• You might still have something nice on chop, but the player sitting before already received information that their chop might be something very good (from earlier discard-behaviour like NOT being skipped over by the player sitting before them on earlier turns) and they are reluctant to discard for that reason.
• The clue given is a play-clue for a card that might be in your hand so you couldn't know whether you want the other card or not. The player skipping you knows that you want it and therefore takes away the decision.

This approach sacrifices some saving-clue-tokens option (that might be achieved on a stricter dogma about who should clue whom) in order to be able to keep nice cards in the game for longer and discard useless cards instead and by that often get those cards played before they would be discarded.

• This convention is better for players who play efficient enough to rarely struggle with clue-shortness and can therefore afford being more careful about not losing first copies.
• If a group often struggles with clue-shortness then skipping-dogma (as proposed by other conventions) might as well improve their overall results. If the problem for not achieving 30 points usually isn't clue-shortness but getting bottom-decked (or heavily delayed from losing earlier a card that could be played now), then results can get better with this discard-management convention.

Planning ahead is a vital aspect of the game. By carefully deciding on who to let clue and whom to skip, it is often possible to

• avoid twin-chops before they become an issue
• avoid not having enough clue tokens to save all necessary cards
• get the discard you were waiting for (when a player has 2 copies of the same playable card and you want them to discard before clueing it)

Others conventions

• For others conventions, see this google document

Strategy

• In addition to the convention(s), there is also some strategy to the game.
• You should not confuse strategy with convention! Strategy is team vs deck; convention is communication within the team.
• A simple example of strategy is saving 2s in 2-player games.
  • Using number-2-clue to communicate that those cards need to be saved, is a convention.

Examples

• More advanced players will try to avoid losing as many "first" (non-unique) cards as possible.
• It's a good strategy to keep good cards in the game as long as possible - even if they are not yet playable.
  • The other copy of that card might be far down the draw pile.
• Trying to mark at least 12 cards with the first 8 clue-tokens.
  • This gives 99% chance of always having enough tokens in the game.
• Not using the last two clue-tokens for "single plays".
  • This avoids running out of clue-tokens in times when you need to save critical cards.